Process for joining the sleeve lining in sack coats and like garments to the shoulder pads in the arm socket and construction formed thereby

ABSTRACT

A process for joining the sleeve lining in sack coats and similar garments to the shoulder pads in the arm socket by means of a backstitch-blindstitch operation. The blindstitches are arranged so as to extend only partially through the shoulder pads so as to avoid stiffening the shoulder pads. The blindstitch operation is done on a backstitch-blindstitch type sewing machine. Prior to placing the lining and shoulder pads on the machine, the pertinent sleeve and coat structure is pulled through an opening in the sleeve lining. The invention also contemplates the construction of the sleeve lining, armhole part and shoulder pads with the blindstitches extending only partially through the shoulder pads.

ilmtew States Patent 1191 1111 3,750,602

Qttich Aug. 7, 1973 1 1 PROCESS FOR JOINING THE SLEEVE 2.731.641 H1956Toscani el 2 3 m; m SACK COATS m g 2,949,086 8/1960 McFaddin 1121 75 XGARMENTS TO THE SHOULDER PADS 1N FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS THE ARMSOCKET AND CONS C 1,953,464 12/1967 Germany ..'112/178 FORMED THEREBYInventor: Robert Ottich, Munchen, Germany Assignee: J. Strobe] '& Sohne,Munchen,

Germany Filed: Mar. 20, 1972 Appl. No.: 235,904

Primary Examiner-Werner I-I. Schroeder Attorney-Paul M. Craig, Jr. eta1.

[57] ABSTRACT A process for joining the sleeve lining in sack coats andsimilar garments to the shoulder pads in the arm socket by means of abackstitch-blindstitch operation. The blindstitches are arranged so asto extend only partially through the shoulder pads so as to avoidstiffening the shoulder pads. The blindstitch operation is done on abackstitch-blindstitch type sewing machine. Prior to placing the liningand shoulder pads on the machine, the pertinent sleeve and coatstructure is pulled through an opening in the sleeve lining. Theinvention also contemplates the construction of the sleeve lining,armhole part and shoulder pads with the blindstitches extending onlypartially through the shoulder pads.

18 Claims, 4-Drawing Figures PROCESS FOR JOINING THE SLEEVE LINING INSACK COATS AND LIKE GARMENTS TO THE SHOULDER PADS IN THE ARM SOCKET ANDCONSTRUCTION FORMED THEREBY BACKGROUND AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Theprevious methods for joining the sleeve lining with the shoulder pads inthe armhole consisted in connecting the sleeve lining on the overturnedsack coat with the shoulder pads either by hand or by means of a normalquilted seam.

The procedure of accomplishing this operation manually isdisadvantageous in that it is very timeconsuming, and in that thehand-made seam is not very durable. The process of joining the sleevelining with the shoulder pads in the arm socket by means of an ordinaryquilted seam is disadvantageous, because, during the sewing step, thestraight needle of the backstitch sewing machine penetrates the sleevelining as well as the shoulder pads, so that the shoulder pads becometoo firm and too rigid. That is, the shoulder pads lose their desirablesoftness and elasticity due to the stitches extended therethrough by thestraight needles.

It is contemplated by the present invention to replace theaforementioned processes by a novel, more advantageous procedure.

The solutioncontemplated by this invention is characterized in that thesleeve lining is joined with the shoulder pads in the arm socket bymeans of the double-thread seam of a backstitch-blindstitch sewingmachine which comprises a lower feeder and an adjustable upper feeder,whereby a penetration of the stitch through the shoulder pads is avoidedand an incorporation of the lining by means of the upper feeder is madepossible.

The present invention contemplates the provision of a process of placingthe shoulder pads and sleeve lining adjacent one another on abackstitch-blindstitch type sewing machine and sewing the pads andsleeve lining together with the machine in such a manner that the sewingstitches connecting the pads and sleeve lining extend only partiallythrough the shoulder pads.

The present invention also contemplates the provision of a constructionfor sack coats and the like including an armhole part, shoulder padattached to said armhole part and a sleeve lining attached to saidarmhole part by way of blindstitches extending through said sleevelining and armhole part but only partially through said shoulder pads.

These provisions and other objects, features and advantages of thepresent invention will become more apparent from the following detaileddescription thereof, when taken in conjunction with the accompanyingdrawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 illustrates a sack coat sleeveand armhole construction according to the previous manual procedure;

FIG. 2 illustrates an armhole construction wherein the sleeve lining isjoined to the shoulder pads by an ordinary quilted, or backstitch seam;

FIG. 3 illustrates an armhole construction wherein the sleeve lining isjoined to the shoulder pads in accordance with the novel process of thepresent invention by the seam ofa backstitch-blindstitch sewing machine;and

FIG. 4 illustrates the sewing of the sleeve lining in the armholeconstruction of FIG. 3 on the sewing machine.

In FIG. 1, 1 denotes the fabric of a reversed sack coat, 2 denotes thesack coat lining, and 3 is the sleeve lining. This sleeve lining 3 isshown as cut open at point 3a for illustrating the two-piece shoulderpad 4 and 4a. Hand-basted seam 5 joins the sack coat lining 2 with theshoulder pads 4, 4a. Seam 6 joins the linings 2 and 3.

In FIG. 2, the fabric of the sack coat is again denoted by l, 2 againdenotes the sack coat lining, and 3 the sleeve lining, while 3a is againa small, turned-over portion of the sleeve lining 3 under which aportion 2a of the sack coat lining 2 is visible. The sack coat lining 2and/or 2a is again joined with the shoulder pads 4, 4a by means of abasted seam 5. Numeral 7 in FIG. 2 designates an ordinary quilted seam,during the sewing of which the long, straight, and vertically disposedneedle of an ordinary backstitch sewing machine penetrates through thesack coat lining 2 (and/or 2a) and also additionally completely throughthe shoulder pads 4 and 4a, and sews these parts together. As mentionedin the introduction, this arrangement attaches the shoulder pads toorigidly with consequent disadvantages. In FIG. 2, 8 denotes thecylindrical lower arm of a backstitch sewing machine employed in thisembodiment.

FIG. 3 shows an armhole construction in accordance with the novelprocess of the present invention. The backstitch-blindstitch seam 9 isextended by a blindstitch into the outer padding part 4 of the shoulderpad 4, 4a in as shallow a manner as possible by means of an ordinarycircularly curved needle. The thread of seam 9 extends through the sackcoat lining 2 and the sleeve lining 3 and into the outer padding 4 ofthe shoulder pads. Blindstitch seam 9 comprises two threads disposedside-by-side on the sleeve lining 3.

The shoulder pads 4 and 4a have been connected to one another to form acoherent element in all three processes by basting seams prior tointroduction into the arm socket. Preferably the blindstitch onlyextends into outer part 4. However, depending on the dimensions of parts4 and 4a, the stitch could possibly extend into part 4a, particularly ifpart 4 were very thin. Also, a one-piece pad could be used.

In FIG. 4, 8 denotes the cylindrical lower arm and 10 the head of thebackstitch-blindstitch machine particularly suitable for purposes of thepresent invention. The machine under protection as German Utility ModelPat. No. 1,953,464 of the firm J. Strobel & Soehne could be used withthe present invention.

The disclosure of said Utility Model is incorporated by reference hereinto the extent necessary for understanding the disclosure of the presentinvention.

In the machine illustrated, ll denotes the cloth clamping plate pressingthe layers of fabric 1, 2, 3, 4, and 4a against the so-called needleplate or stitchplate 12. The needle plate 12 has a wide slot 13 throughwhich the layers of fabric are forced, by a conventionallyperpendicularly or vertically reciprocating presser element (not shownin the drawings), precisely to such an extent that the curved needle(likewise not shown), which swings to-and-fro on a needle lever 14,penetratesjust barely in a blind manner, i.e., without a penetratingstitch, into the shoulder pad part 4.

In accordance with the novel process of this invention according toFIGS. 3 and 4, it is additionally noted that the arm socket with theshoulder pads and the portions of the lining must be pulled through theopen elbow seam or inner seam of the sleeve lining before beingintroduced into the machines. Each sleeve lining consists of two parts,a front part and a rear part. Both parts are closed by a quilted orbackstitched seam on the left-hand and right-hand sides (and/or on theinside and on the outside as seen from the sack coat viewpoint). Forthis reason, prior to pulling the arm socket through the sleeve lining,the inner quilted seam (inner seam of the sleeve lining) must remainopen along a sufficient length for this pulling operation.

After the sleeve lining 3 has been sewed on in the aforementionedmachines, the open section of the inner seam of the sleeve lining 3 isagain closed by means of a quilted seam.

It is additionally of great importance for the process of this inventionthat the backstitch-blindstitch sewing machine utilized in thisconnection possesses, in addition to the normal lower feeder, an upperfeeder or feeder dog which is adjustable during the sewing operation.This adjustability of the feeders with respect to one another enablesthe sewing machine operator to incorporate the width of the lining intothe arm socket in an accurate manner and to a required extent. Theblindstitch seam employed in the novel process of the present inventionexhibits advantageous effects in many respects. This seam is moreelastic than a normal quilted seam. Also, since the two sewing threadsare disposed on the sleeve lining, increased protection is attainedagainst premature abrasion of the seam produced by constant chafingduring the wearing of the garment and, in the final analysis, againstdetaching of the sleeve lining.

While I have shown and described one embodiment in accordance with thepresent invention, it is to be understood that the same is not limitedthereto but is susceptible of numerous changes and modifications asknown to a person skilled in the art, and I therefore do not wish to belimited to the detailsshown and described herein but intend to cover allsuch changes and modifications as are within the scope of those: skilledin the art when given the disclosure herein.

l claim:

I. A process for joining, in the area of an armhole part of a sack coator like garment, a sleeve lining to shoulder pad means provided in saidarmhole part, said process comprising:

placing the shoulder pad means and sleeve lining adjacent one another ona backstitch-blindstitch type sewing machine, and

sewing the shoulder pad means and sleeve lining to one another with saidsewing machine insuch a manner that sewing stitches connecting theshoulder pad means and sleeve lining extend only partially through saidshoulder pad means.

2. A process according to claim 1, wherein said sewing machine has afirst and second feed means and a circular stitching needle, and whereinsaid step of placing includes positioning the sleeve lining and shoulderpad means between said first and second feed means in such a manner thatsaid circular stitching needle first engages siad sleeve lining duringthe sewing step.

3. A process according to claim 2, wherein said first feed means is alower feeder and said second feed means is an adjustable upper feeder,said sleeve lining being positioned closer to said upper feeder than aresaid shoulder pad means.

4. A process according to claim 2, wherein the armhole part is providedwith a coat lining, and wherein said process comprises the further stepof positioning said coat lining on said sewing machine so as to bestitched together with said shoulder pad means and sleeve lining duringthe sewing step.

5. A process according to claim 2, further comprising the step ofreversing the normal in-use position of said coat structure by pullingthe armhole part along with the shoulder pad means and sleeve liningthrough an open inner seam of the sleeve lining prior to the step ofplacing.

6. A process according to claim 4, further comprising the step ofreversing the normal in-use position of said coat structure by pullingthe armhole part along with the shoulder pad means and sleeve liningthrough an open inner seam of the sleeve lining prior to the step ofplacing.

7. A process according to claim 4, further comprising the step ofclosing up said open inner seam of the sleeve lining after the step ofsewing the shoulder pad means to said sleeve lining.

8. A process according to claim 4, further comprising the step ofattaching said shoulder pad means to said coat lining of the armholepart prior to the step of placmg.

9. A process according to claim 2, wherein said shouder pad means isformed in two parts which are attached to one another prior to the stepof placing.

10. A process according to claim 8, further comprising the step ofclosing up said open inner seam of the sleeve lining after the step ofsewing the shoulder pad means to said sleeve lining.

1 l. A process according to claim 6, wherein said coat lining, sleevelining and shoulder pad means are positioned such that said circularneedle first engages said sleeve lining, then said coat lining, and thensaid shoulder pad means.

12. A process according to claim 1 1, further comprising the step ofpulling the armhole part along with the shoulder pad means and sleevelining back through said open inner seam so that the coat structure isin the normal position for use.

13. A process according to claim 12, further comprising the step ofclosing up said open inner seam of the sleeve lining after the step ofsewing the shoulder pad means to said sleeve lining.

14. A construction for sack coats and the like comprising: an armholepart, shoulder pad means attached to said armhole part, and a sleevelining attached to said armhole part by way of blind stitches extendingcompletely through said sleeve lining and armhole part and onlypartially through said shoulder pad means.

15. A construction according to claim 14, further comprising an insidelining on said armhole part also attached by said blind stitchesextending therethrough.

16. A process according to claim 4, wherein said first feed means is alower feeder and said second feed means is an adjustable upper feeder,said sleeve lining being positioned closer to said upper feeder than aresaid shoulder pad means.

17. A process according to claim 6, wherein said first feed means is alower feeder and said second feed means is an adjustable upper feeder,said sleeve lining being positioned closer to said upper feeder than aresaid shoulder pad means. i

18. A process according to claim 11, wherein said first feed means is alower feeder and said second feed means is an adjustable upper feeder,said sleeve lining being positioned closer to said upper feeder than aresaid shoulder pad means.

* i i i t

1. A process for joining, in the area of an armhole part of a sack coator like garment, a sleeve lining to shoulder pad means provided in saidarmhole part, said process comprising: placing the shoulder pad meansand sleeve lining adjacent one another on a backstitch-blindstitch typesewing machine, and sewing the shoulder pad means and sleeve lining toone another with said sewing machine in such a manner that sewingstitches connecting the shoulder pad means and sleeve lining extend onlypartially through said shoulder pad means.
 2. A process according toclaim 1, wherein said sewing machine has a first and second feed meansand a circular stitching needle, and wherein said step of placingincludes positioning the sleeve lining and shoulder pad means betweensaid first and second feed means in such a manner that said circularstitching needle first engages said sleeve lining during the sewingstep.
 3. A process according to claim 2, wherein said first feed meansis a lower feeder and said second feed means is an adjustable upperfeeder, said sleeve lining being positioned closer to said upper feederthan are said shoulder pad means.
 4. A process according to claim 2,wherein the armhole part is provided with a coat lining, and whereinsaid process comprises the further step of positioning said coat liningon said sewing machine so as to be stitched together with said shoulderpad means and sleeve lining during the sewing step.
 5. A processaccording to claim 2, further comprising the step of reversing thenormal in-use position of said coat structure by pulling the armholepart along with the shoulder pad means and sleeve lining through an openinner seam of the sleeve lining prior to the step of placing.
 6. Aprocess according tO claim 4, further comprising the step of reversingthe normal in-use position of said coat structure by pulling the armholepart along with the shoulder pad means and sleeve lining through an openinner seam of the sleeve lining prior to the step of placing.
 7. Aprocess according to claim 4, further comprising the step of closing upsaid open inner seam of the sleeve lining after the step of sewing theshoulder pad means to said sleeve lining.
 8. A process according toclaim 4, further comprising the step of attaching said shoulder padmeans to said coat lining of the armhole part prior to the step ofplacing.
 9. A process according to claim 2, wherein said shoulder padmeans is formed in two parts which are attached to one another prior tothe step of placing.
 10. A process according to claim 8, furthercomprising the step of closing up said open inner seam of the sleevelining after the step of sewing the shoulder pad means to said sleevelining.
 11. A process according to claim 6, wherein said coat lining,sleeve lining and shoulder pad means are positioned such that saidcircular needle first engages said sleeve lining, then said coat lining,and then said shoulder pad means.
 12. A process according to claim 11,further comprising the step of pulling the armhole part along with theshoulder pad means and sleeve lining back through said open inner seamso that the coat structure is in the normal position for use.
 13. Aprocess according to claim 12, further comprising the step of closing upsaid open inner seam of the sleeve lining after the step of sewing theshoulder pad means to said sleeve lining.
 14. A construction for sackcoats and the like comprising: an armhole part, shoulder pad meansattached to said armhole part, and a sleeve lining attached to saidarmhole part by way of blind stitches extending completely through saidsleeve lining and armhole part and only partially through said shoulderpad means.
 15. A construction according to claim 14, further comprisingan inside lining on said armhole part also attached by said blindstitches extending therethrough.
 16. A process according to claim 4,wherein said first feed means is a lower feeder and said second feedmeans is an adjustable upper feeder, said sleeve lining being positionedcloser to said upper feeder than are said shoulder pad means.
 17. Aprocess according to claim 6, wherein said first feed means is a lowerfeeder and said second feed means is an adjustable upper feeder, saidsleeve lining being positioned closer to said upper feeder than are saidshoulder pad means.
 18. A process according to claim 11, wherein saidfirst feed means is a lower feeder and said second feed means is anadjustable upper feeder, said sleeve lining being positioned closer tosaid upper feeder than are said shoulder pad means.